Panhala to Vishalgad
I had this trek in my ToDo list for long time and was actually going to go for the same couple of weeks back (Mid August, 07). But that did not materialize and I thought, it won't be possible for me to do the trek this year. But even with just three of us (Myself, Anup and Shekhar), we decided to do it and that too just 5/6 hours before we left for the trek! This is just-in-time execution!!!
We had initial plan to start the journey from Pune on Saturday, 25th Aug 07, morning. But after learning that the trek should be started early, we left for Kolhapur at Friday Midnight. Reached Kolhapur by 5:30am (saturday) and then caught Ratnagiri bus and got down at VaghbeeL. From this point, the Panhala fort is about 7km. After waiting for 15 mins, we took a jeep and reached the fort. First, we had the famous break-fast of Kolhapur, the MisaL. Then did some shopping, as on Friday we didn't have any time. It was almost 9am.
Day 1 (Saturday, 25th Aug 2007)
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Our trek started from the Pusati buruj of Panhala. On the way, we did sight-seeing at Teen Darwaja (Three Doors) and aandarbawa. The structure of teen darwaja is vert good and provide good fortification for the entrance Panhala. The actual route starts near the MSEB office near Pusati buruj. There is a small demolished statue of Nandi, from there one has to take the right pathway and descend. You need to descend for about 15mins and then after walk of about 10 mins, you reach Turakvadi. From here, you can either follow the tar road or take a shortcut to next vadi. By following the tar road, you end up walking about a 1km more. After a walk of about half a km from the vadi, you reach the Mhasai Pathar (Mhasai platue). This a really a vast platue and in Monsoon it is really beautiful with the hill covered completely with little grass every-where, but there are hardly any trees atop. We could imagine that - this place would be dry and barren not later than 2/3 months after the monsoon is over (Dec/Jan).
The route on the pathar is well marked by passage of four wheelers. After walking for about 1.30hrs (5/6kms), you reach the Mhasai devi temple. Around this area there lots of shepherds, who come there to graze their cattles. So, you don't find much problem in getting the direction. Though, after the temple, there is no marked route and you need to take the help of the shepherds to get the direction. From the pathar, you need to get down at kumbhar-vadi. There are two three routes to get down here. So depending upon your taste, you can consult the people there and chose the path. The descend from the pathar to some vadi below is not that tough and it takes hardly 15-20 mins.
Once down, you need to follow the road towards the left side, along the mountains. On the way, you will come across many vadis - like khotvadi, dhangarvadi and you can always find many people in the vadis and can check the route. We had planned to reach upto Karpe-vadi, where we would put our camp. But, since it was a bit tiring, we decided to sleep in Madaivadi, the vadi prior to Karpevadi. It was almost 6:30/7 in the evening and it was wise decision not to go ahead, as the from here onwards - there is not defined route and even though there are few arrows on the way, you could easily lose the track during the night. Even though it being monsoon time, it drizzled only for some time and our clothes did not get wet completely.
We had trekked about 18km from the Pusati buruj. Since we were only three, a good fellow allowed us to sleep in his house. He also provided stove and vessle to cook the khichadi. If the group size is big, then not many people will allow a shelter for you and then you would have to sleep in the temple or the school. Since we were tired, we had a very good nights sleep from 9 to 6.30 and were ready to take on the next leg of the journey.
Day 2 (Sunday, 26th Aug 2007)
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After having tea at the host's house, we started at around 8am and started our journey towards Karpevadi. If you are not going to stay in the karpevadi for the night, you need not go through the village. The route to next village from Karpevadi goes through a thick and damp jungle and you need to walk for about 30-40mins through it to get out of the woods. We came across another dhangar vadi on the way. Then the next stop was Malevadi and patevadi. When we reached patevadi, it was almost noon and then decided to take help from one more villager to cook our meal. We had maggie for the lunch and started towards the next stop.
You will intermittently see direction arrows. Its good way to make sure that you are on the track. Though, sometimes - there are no arrows for about couple of kms. So, always consult the villagers about the direction and approximate time to reach the next viilage.
Apart from children in every village and sometimes elders asking for toffies, we have had really good experience with the villagers. After leaving patevadi, the next major stop was Ringevadi. The villagers, at least those whom we met, were not at all co-operative and actually few of them tried to misguide us! But one good lady showed the right direction to us. That side though there were 3/4 routes and it was a bit confusing. There was a group of small children playing in the farm. They accousted us and aske for toffies. when we replied in negation, they asked for money!!! This was too much for us and as if it was not enough, they told us bluntly, unless we gave them money, they would not tell us the correct route.
Taking our chance, we followed on route and within 10 mins we were in thick jungle. Also, on the way, we had not seen a single arrow. In the jungle, we came across a considerably big stream, which one of the ladies in Patevadi had told. So we decided to try our luck. After crossing the stream and walking for about 5 mins, we finally sighted an arrow. Because of cloudy weather, it had already gotten dark and we were a bit nervous and anxious till we saw the arrow. After walking for 5 more mins, we came across a lady going in other direction and that assured us even more. From there we took some 20 more mins before reaching mhasavade village. And this was our last vadi in the mountains and we were about to start walking on the tar road.
We took small break and after a walk of about 1km, we reached the road and started walking again in the left direction. After walking about 4km, we reached the panDharpaNi village. It was about 615 in the evening and we were hungry. From here, the Vishalgad fort was at 20km and next village BhattaLe at 6km. We just had tea and some biscuits there, as the owner of the shop was to provide the dinner at 9, we decided to move on. On the 2nd day, we had already walked for about 22kms and now walking on the tar road without much cushioning provided by grass/sand was very hard. It took us about 1:30hr to reach bhat-taLe. We took shelter at a shop, who also provided us a vessle and the fire-wood. Since very tired, we had no patience to cook khichadi and again prepared maggie noodles for the dinner. Though, we went to bed by 9, we did not have good sleep as the last time. Again on this day, we were lucky - as it did not rain heavily.
Day 3 (Monday, 27th Aug 2007)
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We got up at around 7, got fresh, bought something to eat on the way and went to see the pavan-khinda. Actually, one road to the khinda is about 1km before the village, but since it was very dark when we reached the place the previous night, we did not go there. But villagers showed us short-cut to the pavan khinda, which saved us from walking about 1.5km (for Bhattale to khinda and back). Had tea and biscuits again and started the last strech of 14km!
After walking for about 45-48 kms in last two days, our legs were tired a lot. And there was always the option/temptation to catch a bus/jeep to reach the fort. But with the determination to finish the trek without any bus/jeep, we walked .... slowly but steadily. Took couple of shortcuts, which saved us about 2/3kms. This leg of the journey was pretty boring and tiring and the last couple of kms were almost endless, with the complete U turns hiding the exact distance upto the fort.
Finally, we reached the shops at the base of fort at around 1pm, had misal-pav again and had refreshing tea. Did some sight-seeing on the fort and came back to catch the bus at 3pm to Kolhapur. Since on this day, there was continous rain, we had to change our cloths and put up dry ones before we got onto the bus. From here onwards, we had lots of rest in the bus upto Kolhapur. There, we again immediately got the next bus to Pune at 6 and were hopeful of reach swargate by 11pm. But it was mid-night of monday and after 3days of trekking, we were back to the same place. I took one more hour to reach home!
Only after doing the trek, we could understand the pain and the efforts which the Maratha warriors must had gone through - to save the King shivaji. They had completed this journey of about 60km only in 20hours! And now I realize the efforts taken by Bajiprabhu Deshpande, who after doing this long trek, fought with 1000 mughals with just 300 marathas! Hats Off to him and Hats off to Shivaji Raje, for whom he performed this heroic act!